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"What will you give me?" Cock

I'm sure this must have been posted before but someone I know just sent me this, have a look why, RJ04ZYX failed in 2015.

My advice would be to stay away from the car put your buffer down and put your hands in your pocket Why? Because fresh paint is still soft and takes ages after to be hard a novice will cause friction burns. Your painter should be the one to remove swirl marks or a good valeter Get a buffer but practise on a shitter

These guys are pretty good. www.crockofgoldattheendoftherainbowcarauctions.com

Classic

M-Sport Black Edition

Remember and put special edition with colour coded exhaust in the advert ..

Thank you so much for the replies, everyone! I will look at the different machines and get things together. As it stands, the BMW is going back as they've done a crap job generally. I think they've even sprayed the exhaust pipe when painting the back bumper, unless black BMWs now come with a shiny black laquered exhaust . It actually looks good in black though haha. Time to switch bodyshops, as this was their last chance. I've been watching a few videos, and a lot use clays bars before going into the polishing process. Not sure how important that is. But I'll get my tools first, and update you! Thank you!!

i have become a fan of G10 recently its like 3000 grade wet and dry in a paste, really nice for final polishing after you done some serious scratches work,

Hi TG, I have been using a Sealey polisher with white foam pad and either G3 cutting compound or 3m fastcut. I’ve attached a picture of the kit I’m using as I’m at my site right now (just waiting for a customer to collect his lovely little corsa he left a deposit on yday lol). I’m also a member of detailing world which is really helpful over the years and I painted a few cars in my time. So basically if the car has bad scratches I will wet sand with 2000 grit and then polish with a white pad and spray of water with 5 drops of g3 on the pad at setting 1-2 on he buffer. All Bodyshop’s do this process after they painted a car to get any imperfections/orange peel out of the clear coat. A few passes and wipe clean with a microfibre then same process until it’s like a glass reflection. I finish it will the gloss enchancer\wax. If the paint ain’t to bad then I will use the 3m fast cut. Since your bodyshop has most likely compounded the car already hence the holigrams/swirls left in from using the buffer on high setting, I would recommend 3m fast cut and setting 1-1.5 on the buffer with a few sprays of water on the panel. No wetsanding. I’m confident the holigrams will be gone for sure. Black cars are a nightmare on swirls and holigrams but look amazing once done. Anyways I hope this help Cheers, Amer.

I have just moved to a forced rotation DA and the results are much better and faster than a standard DA, which on hard paint I found very frustrating as it can take a long time to remove the defects. A forced rotation however does have more safety than a rotary and if you can stretch to one i would recommend it. Look at in2detailing for ideas. Just as important as the tool is the pads and products you will use, I recommend you buy the small bottles first till you find a product that suits you and watch as many videos as you can on YouTube to steal their knowledge of pad types. Oh and beware of the Chinese pads, to me they all seem the same, soft which will not cut the hard paint cars so invest in some good ones and just look after them they can last a long time. You can get some amazing results with a bit of practice and when your ready move to wet sanding the results can be amazing.

The car has had a private reg put on it within the last few months, how would dvla do this if the car isn’t meant to be on the road? where does it say "isn't meant to be on the road " ? if dvla issued a v5c in 2010 then theres no reason it could not have had multiple plate changes ? read up about cat b "extensive damage"

I think every repair shop in the land is looking for a good all round mechanic.Where do you get them and how much do you offer them.Signing on fee,house with guaranteed good school places nearby,cars for him and the wife, £30k basic ( £50k darn sawf) and generous bonus scheme,free account at the local etc.The next thing will be that the good ones will be employing agents like footballers.

Three at BCA a few months back , not seen them lately though , pity they were very good actually . Maybe they've been looking for you to buy the bargains but you never went to see them A female at Mannheim is very annoying , very loud , very abrupt , "who'll start me off on this one then " ,3 grand then on this one then " What will ya giv me on this one then " Got a bid one this one then " Everyones thinking for god sake shut up

One thing does cometo mind. I haven't seen any female auctioneers! This is where women should want equality. I so could use my good looks and get a bargain...

Learn with a rotary but do so on old £30 panels from a scrappie. In my opinion it’s like learning to drive a manual car, thereafter you can drive both manual and auto. Learn on a DA and you’ll have to or want to, buy a rotary. Then you’ll have two tools. You can only use one at a time. To get you over your buffer trail issue, buy a Sealey rotary and a blue pad with blue anti hologram 3m product. It will be almost impossible to do any damage with that set up and will get shot of holograms in 30 mins for the whole side of a car But for future learning, get a hard pad, some compound and learn how hard you can or can’t go, on an old panel from a breakers. Rotary polishers are not fire breathing monsters unlike what DIY enthusiasts will have you believe. I have mopped umpteen cars and burned through clear coat twice. Both attempting to cut so hard on a very deep scratch that would have needed paint anyway. For simple swirl removal and lessening deep scratches, a rotary is the tool. Learn the hard way first, for an easier life down the road. My smart repairers use a mop, compound, a polishing pad and polish on fresh paint each time they paint a panel for me. Comes up right each time. Compounding and polishing isn’t difficult but you just need to know what you are doing each time you set the machine on. As said, detailing forums will help but like any forum, there are knowledgeable people and there are people who give shocking advice based on other people’s shocking advice. Conventional wisdom.

Ive a sealey one its decent and wasn't expensive used it with 3m products before .

False auctioneer bids? Don't think you've mentioned that before

Cars are full of leprechaun poo though.

Iain irvine jnr is decent guy so was his father who sadly passed away last year they would go out there way to help you. When it was shotts . In fairness i don't think mainheim is the same since Iain left in all honesty the customer service isn't the same and also a lot of staff leaving etc..when i last attended... Sma was good too I think one of the problems we all face is the market is much more limited now than say ten years ago with bca and mainheim being the main auctions sources with a few online Kevin was good too always was and is helpfully from shotts to sma to.bca Both shotts - mainheim and sma had loads of nice staff over the years Been to Wilson auctions they are ok too I've found in the past . intercity motor auctions in glasgow and perth blast from the past now spent many a sunday there sitting through junk to get the car you wanted .only for it to start up and the dashboard would be like Blackpool illuminations the joys