Stalker

Will you take a part ex?

Right I'm here, where is everyone? Howay Ozz! I had to pay extra to get my sign on the bus! Stuff it....... i need a new car, I'm gonna look on Autotrader now..........

Right..... I'm on the Megabus from Newcastle to Manchester, I'm due to arrive at 16.45pm. Who else is going?

See you there in the morning, my next door neighbours house is up for sale, I shall steal the for sale sign and paint it with white paint and write on it in black paint... ”Autotrader = Thieves” Actually... can you pick me up, I sold my car this morning on Autotrader.

It was a physical auction - bidding against the hall Not particularly, slightly behind cap. It was Lex Autolease - Grade 4 (Its actually quite a good Manchester grade 4 - Grade 3 is usually scrap!) I know, the previous Mondeo from them, got lifted within 2 hours of the sale, and all of the wheel trims had been pinched! Doesnt sound like much, but still its the principle.

Ive got nowhere with BCA on a Mondeo I bought online last month. Bought out of BCA Manchester, Ex Fleet Mondeo 1.6 TDCI 64 Plate with 60k on. Assured report stated coolant level "requires attention" in red. Car turns up, very little coolant in bottle however the bottle is JET Black inside from contamination! Looked at the report and the Oil / Coolant Contamination part stated "None Visible" So went through the new procedure with BCA an filled out the online form, added photos etc. Got the usual fob off emails, and now i have asked them for a full and final decision. They are hiding behind the fact that the coolant level was already highlighted as an issue, and it is their opinion that this must have manifested since the report was carried out therefore we cannot make a claim! The car hasn't done a mile since its inspection, its clearly been missed by the assessor on the day. So, do we fix it ourselves and claim, or get a third party to fix it and make a claim? There is a difference between low coolant (water pump/radiator leak) and then head gasket failure before anyone comments on buying a car with coolant issues. I wouldn't have bought it blind with a contamination problem too.

Benji, get the recall before done before the customer gets it. Don't listen and you will have to get an EGR valve and cooler fitted later at your cost. Its intermittent at the moment, but hear me now, it will become permanent. Yes, I have to negotiate a little to get it down. I have no problem with reman EGR on anything else apart from on these animals. They are fiddly.

The popcorn and ice cream are ready here too

Sorry.... you work for an OEM creating diagnostic codes.... but your pissing about with :- a. An Insignia and b. Snap on diagnostics And you came on here asking for help?

We only fit genuine wahler ones now after pissing about with aftermarket shite lasting 3 months. We bought one from euro last week for £225 plus vat. And we have our own techs that fitted it. However I’d charge it out at about £150 plus vat labour I reckon. We had a young lad that did so many he got them down to 1.5-2 hours start to finish. Mind we swerve as as many as we can with the emissions scandal thing.

Or a split vac pipe to the servo, very common on all VAG crap. Whats the exact code?

Definitely not, and they will make you pay a diagnostic fee if the light is on. Its a really easy bodge, once it’s had it’s recall you can remove the bodge and claim a new egr valve. Does it have plenty of vacuum at the turbo wastegate positioner? On a mityvac does it refresh quickly if you release the vacuum? It should have about 20hg at idle. I wonder if it has a leak somewhere else on the vacuum pipes?

Sorry I should have said put the motor back on. Nah it’s hidden by the motor. Hi Dave, It the wastegate arm free? Unfortunately it’s difficult to check without removing the actuator as the spring masks the sticky ness, Especially when blasting hot? They are quite fiddly to set up too.

Right, so basically there are two parts to the EGR valve, the mechanical part and the electrical part. What happens is the mechanical part of the EGR wears and then sends the potentiometer to pot. you need to remove the electrical motor part (4 small torx screws) then you will be left with a plastic half cog. By simply placing a 13mm nut at the bottom of the cog this will hold it up to its proper position and keep the potentiometer happy. I’ll post photos in a bit.

Whats the registration number? don't use the DLVA database as its not a safety recall. Actually scrap that, ive just looked at your website. It hasn't had its recall done yet. So if you get the glow light off and the code to clear, then you present it at your local Skoda dealer where they will carry out the EA189 service action. Once this has been done, it then gets a trust building 2 year warranty on 13 components (EGR valve and cooler included) The EGR valve on your car is £325 to buy plus 5-6 hours to fit. Would you like to know how to get rid of the light on your car? Using a very inexpensive part that will be totally undetectable?

Benji, I have a Batchelor of arts in EGR valves and coolers on this engine. First of all has it had its recall? EA189, you go to the Skoda Website and put in the chassis number. Come back to me.

And you see that as a positive? The one blessed with oil pump problems, injector harnesses, injector faults, the list goes on

Has he not got another good one to put the pipe up? Is it on its original cat? Will it pass with a Italian Tune?

Our local gearbox man , does new bearings for £250 all in. Expect to pay £100ish to remove and refit inc oil i would say. But thats in the North East where working for less is compulsory.

Shop about, it’s not a difficult job to do the rear diffs on them. Do you have a local gearbox repairer? Deal directly with them, they will have a tame spanner to remove it for you.

His code is for the motor inside the headlight. I have just ordered and fitted a cheapie level sensor from ebay for £28 delivered! Rather than TPS £125. Its worked so far!

Needs to go on either Vag Com or ODIS and see what the trouble codes are for. A simple removal of the bumper is enough to get the radars out of line. Speak to a local bodyshop that does insurance work, supposedly there is a mobile guy near us that looks after all of the local bodyshops.

TV32, are you advertising it as an ex royal mail van? I would do. Most of the time its blatantly obvious unless they have had a full shoot.

Too true.... this is happening more and more with incompetent mechanics, deleting fault codes to fix a problem! I don't mind when they delete a fault code on a rear lambda sensor for an aging cat, however when its a boost/air/egr fault that displays a loss of power, its a piss take.

A simple kick of the tyre is his preferred tool.