Dave2302

Hi, Cheers Guys, thanks for all the advice. Yes, I've checked all the obvii, had the door plugs apart, didn't look that bad, contact cleaner and pick, and re seated, door loom looks ok as far as I can see without door card removal, I've tried 2 new fuses f46 and f58, plus all the silly reset procedures LL TO NO AVAIL l suspect the Motor / Module, but what I'll do is try a set of switches first, these seem to be very common failure items according to t'internet. That's the quickest easiest thing first, if that don't work I can get her a used tested Motor Assy for under £30 squids, I'll see what she wants to do she'll be in later on. You all know I was hoping someone was just gonna say yep, it is always the xxxxxxxx but sadly its a VAG product Also I've had my one easy one this week, that Shaguar !! I also got a 2011 E Class here waiting on a Spring and Top Mount and that one has a right odd HVAC Fault, so half the Dash is outta that right now, but the guy who owns it is a very well off Property Developer, so he can afford the huge bill 4 more for next week, a Passat for a Subframe and a load of MOT work, X5 Air Susp and Service, Bongo Auto Box job, a Truck for Rear Caliper, one of my Sales Cars to prep and MOT, and a sold GLA going out tomorrow, plus there's a Rally Club mates MkII Escort Gearbox that's been here since Xmas, and the Snowman Rally is next w/e I think, so I better do that later Snow is on hard now, settling like a bastard, gotta go pick Mel up in a while, she won't drive in it now after last years C Class ice / deep ditch incident

Hi, Yeah I checked Fuses, left them both out a while and also tried the hold key in unlocked position then hold in locked position "reset" but fuck all is happening. I'll just tell her we can try new left and right door switches first, they're pretty cheap, and easy to fit, then if that doesn't work it's new Motor(s) which have modules built in, starting with the Drivers Door

OK, so I'll look into that now via Google / Fleabay, does that affect both sides then ?

No sunroof and no Rear Eleccy Windows I very much doubt it, Central Locking working fine off Key Buttons and using Key Blade

Keep everything, maybe tell them the phone number in case he might have actually registered the mobile number

Hi, As title, I've already spent an Hour on VAG Com and this lady owner is our local Postie, she's on her own and doesn't have a ton of money, a nice lass !! I'm hoping someone can help me save her some money on my hours / parts darts stage .................. Its a pretty tidy Fabia 2005, 6Y model, has Manual Rear Windows, and Electric Windows in the Front 2 Doors. Neither Front Windows are working Up or Down, Left Door doesn't work from it's own switch or the Drivers. All failed suddenly and at the same time. I've checked the 2 x 25 A Fuses in Dash Fusebox and cleaned and re seated the Door Jamb Wiring Plugs. VAG Com is not seeing any Door Modules ? ...................... It seems to see everything I'd normally see on a low spec VAG, does this old thing even have Door Modules ?? Everything else on the old bus working fine, including C/L, and the only 2 Faults in a full VAG Com Scan is Radio Aerial Amplifier and A/C needs Regas I'm Guesstimating changing the Drivers Switch Pack, maybe a Passenger Switch too, as it seems they are crap, but again I don't wanna rump her bill up

Exactly this !! Just look up a "John Smith" or whatever name in the Phone Book and use that address, which just helps to add a bit of credibility, you just say " I have provided you the details that the guy gave me on the day" .................. ONE CAVEAT:- no matter how hard they might press you in the future FFS do not admit you did that, 'cos you will get done for 'Perverting the course of justice' and that is deep shit !!

I think you can switch off being able to see certain members posts on your screen, so if someone you dislike winds you up, you don't see that shit, and maybe's they cant see your posts either .............. That's how it works on the Forum I Mod

Yeah, after I'd partially removed the wheel arch liner to see if I could get it from that end, only to find a load of gubbins in the way and no access to unbolt said gubbins LOL It was 2 years odd ago now, so I cannae remember exactly, but I remember being on it about an hour and a half. Thankfully I have no Renault Customers currently, I even bought Renault Clip Dealer machine just to ensure that sods law would kick in and I'd never need it

Hi, I agree, I have a Mazda Bongo coming in to fit a good used Auto Box to, yeah, I'll flush the cooler whilst Installing it, but it is a cost effective way of getting it running again. I won't rebuil;d anything other than Mercedes 722.6 boxes these days, because i gotta warranty them !! I made it quite cklear to the customer that he sourced gearbox and pays me my hours even if it is a dud and he knows that, but to be fair, it isn't worth him spending north of £1500 plus fitting to get a rebuilt unit installed. Good used units are often better than some of the "Cowboy" Rebuilds ............. Ha Ha anyone remember "Leaneys" in Erith Kent, or Mr Transmission, in Deptford SE London, (after Bob sold it to the Arab) ?? Personally, if I had bought that Juke, I'd SOR Ebay it ......................"Taken in PX, has strange noise, might be wheel bearing, we are no expert on these, sold SOR due to age and mileage" some dick will probably bid retail for it !!

The reason for those quotes is because the dearer (usually more reputable) specialists really don't want all the aggro that goes with these trannys It may well be one of the Bearings, usually sounds like a muffled buzz saw if a Bearing !! It is the "Primary Unit Bearing" if you can hear it without the Car moving, or if it changes pitch as you kick it down the ratios and Engine RPM alters, "Secondary Unit Bearing" if you can hear it only when moving and it's consistent with Road Speed not Engine RPM. I made a tool up so I could do the Ford, Rover and Fiat ones with Trans in the Car, but IIRC the Nissan ones are a different design and needed a total strip down The one that Oil change made a difference to would have been a blocked filter, (debris from a the Chain Belt breaking up) and Oil and Filter is only a short term fix until the Chain lets go and smashes up the drop gears and diff teeth !! I doubt a decent Specialist will allow you to R&I the Trans yourself, I wouldn't, (but then I wouldn't touch one these days), too many problems can be created as a result of inexperienced fitting with any Auto Box .................. Such as, (for example), only the Firm building the Trans will actually flush the debris from previous failure(s) properly, and using the correct procedure / pulsator machine HTH Edit:- *flush the debris from the Oil Cooler and Lines*

LOL, you could always just not bother reading certain posts

LOL, did anyone see the true story Film (on Film 4 last night) ...................... Deepwater Horizon, Well blew out April 2010, took 'em 5 months to seal that fucker up, and there were reports that it was still leaking in 2012 ..................... 210 million US Gallons leaked out over the 5 months ..................... I'm guessing that Concrete on the Sea Bed that failed was Chinese

I once recall changing the RB 501 Sidelight Bulb on a Clio which is a bad enough job in itself ....................... I'm in the habit of leaving the Sidelights on whilst doing so, as the new bulb provides some light in the tight space in order to get the Holder back in the Headlamp correctly, on this occasion I popped the Fuse when inserting the Bulb in such a tight space ................ Not a biggie I thought, until I found where it was, underneath multiple layers within the Fuse ./ Relay Box, and an absolute arse hole to get it all to bits just to change a 1 pence Fuse ............................ FFS what utter wanker designed that

/\ /\ /\ LIKE

Le Frogs are just like Ze Hermans, (and anything else really), when you understand 'em they are easy enough to fix, and the usual "lack of maintenance owner know it all billies" is what kills them I claim exemption regarding anything to do with Frog |Fuse and Relay Boxes though Now they really were designed by a fucking moron

Farecla G3 on a mop followed by G10 by hand, then good old fashioned Turtle Wax ....................... Absolute magic

/\ /\ /\ LIKE I don't think I would, I had a set of "Genuine" Motorcraft Plugs last year, misfired outta the box, all the Porcelains were loose in the metal body, looked good, turned out to be Chinesium Fakes !! Same story with Mintex Discs and Pads years ago, guy from Mintex actually contacted me about them !! Buy from trusted source, Fleabay Car Parts is a lottery nowadays, a bloody Chinese Lottery

/\ /\ /\ LIKE That's exactly what I'd try first, before he gets a sniff of anything

That makes sense, but I haven't come across it here yet, but the latest cars I see are 56 plate 2016 right about now, except our E Class which I'm still not allowed to fiddle with until the warranty is out ............ Allegedly The speed limiter is off it now, and I just stick it back to stock if it has to go to the Stealer, I do delete the "Event Log History" but tbh I think they would know that at the Factory via "the cloud" if they really want to go delving

I didn't see a quote, but the Jaguar was definitely Coil, I moved it to the next cylinder and then the misfire migrated with it !! I only fitted plugs 'cos he has been driving it for around a year with a misfire, and I don't want it back any time soon for a #5 misfire, I also told the dick to remember there is 7 more coils all the same age / mileage Of course, he didn't want to put a full set on it Mind, to be a bit fair, nor would I, there's just as much chance of a new Coil going tits up as one that has done 72k miles Our biggest local garage has a full spec Bosch, superb machine, but there is no c*nt there who can use it properly, if it says anything more that Crank Sensor Fault on a non starter they just send the Customer here

LOL, you don't need to fuck around gutting DPF's , just look at the Fuel Trims in live Data, I'm pretty sure even a "humble" Snap On or Delphi will do that, and if your tech doesn't have one of them 2 or better kit change your tech !! Back to Red Adair quote again BTW, did whoever changed that injector actually Code it correctly into ECU ?? I here a million garages that say "Coding that's a load of bollocks" ............. Well they are the wankers talking bollocks, of course they need Coding, (if they are the type of Injectors that actually do need coding) !! HTH,

You won't know if it's Chain Slack until you try a Sensor, especially as it isn't rattling. Like I said, slack is not such an issue on these as it is on Micras and Corsas etc. Shame yours is the dear one outta the 3, that VEMO is the wrong one if yours is the £97 one I dunno about you guys, but i don't fit cheapo sensors these days, too much Chinesium shit about, fair enough if it's an older car I'm not suggesting Main Stealers, but get a decent OEM one like a Bosch, Hitachi, Nippondenso, (I dunno who makes 'em for Toyota), but you get the picture

Drop the tank out

There is a small "fill hole" in the bottom of the Fuel Tank Swirl Pot, they get clogged by a tiny bit of shit, then fuel starvation.................... Of course when it is over 1/4 tank it simply pours fuel over the top of the Swirl Pot, no issues Do not ask me how I found that out !! Oh, btw, you can replace that Fuel Sender while your at it, could be a damaged bit of that that's blocking your orifice