EPV 631 Posted July 10, 2018 2004 BMW 545i tourer, 94,000 Miles. Car was driven down from Yorkshire a month ago with no issues, and has been fine until..... On a test drive the tyre pressure warning light went on. Checked all tyres which were fine, reset the system, all was well. Customer bought car. 6 hours after he bought it, he rang to say that he had a warning light go on regarding the transmission. Now this fella is a trainee mechanic so I said I was happy for him to check the status of the battery and to do nothing else and this is what he texted me; “Hi mate, it's Jay. So basically the issue is when the car is driven for a while or hard, some sort electrical gremlin pops up. So far, air con, radio/idrive has froze, cruise control doesnt work, fan kicks up high. Couple that with the transmission error and tyre pressure error from before. So I won't change anything including the battery and let your garage check it. As i said, only happens when the car is up to temp and driven for a while.” Fortunately he’s not a screamer and is realistic about cars and how they can go wrong. He’s bringing it back today to me and I’m going to get it into my regular garage and see what they can find out. I know nowt about cars, anyone got any ideas what it could be? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arfur Dealy 823 Posted July 10, 2018 I would take it direct to a BMW specialist. It needs proper diagnosis. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MGM 11 Posted July 10, 2018 If I was guessing I’d be looking at Alternator, Battery and checking all the Earths. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EPV 631 Posted July 10, 2018 19 minutes ago, Arfur Dealy said: I would take it direct to a BMW specialist. It needs proper diagnosis. There’s an ex bmw technician at my regular garage 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arfur Dealy 823 Posted July 10, 2018 7 minutes ago, EPV said: There’s an ex bmw technician at my regular garage That's good news Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MSP Motors 39 Posted July 10, 2018 44 minutes ago, EPV said: 2004 BMW 545i tourer, 94,000 Miles. Car was driven down from Yorkshire a month ago with no issues, and has been fine until..... On a test drive the tyre pressure warning light went on. Checked all tyres which were fine, reset the system, all was well. Customer bought car. 6 hours after he bought it, he rang to say that he had a warning light go on regarding the transmission. Now this fella is a trainee mechanic so I said I was happy for him to check the status of the battery and to do nothing else and this is what he texted me; “Hi mate, it's Jay. So basically the issue is when the car is driven for a while or hard, some sort electrical gremlin pops up. So far, air con, radio/idrive has froze, cruise control doesnt work, fan kicks up high. Couple that with the transmission error and tyre pressure error from before. So I won't change anything including the battery and let your garage check it. As i said, only happens when the car is up to temp and driven for a while.” Fortunately he’s not a screamer and is realistic about cars and how they can go wrong. He’s bringing it back today to me and I’m going to get it into my regular garage and see what they can find out. I know nowt about cars, anyone got any ideas what it could be? Radio/nav/air con sounds like CCC issue. A friend of mine just had gearbox issue that sounds the same, drove the car for 4 hours then got transmission fault. He ended up changing the box. The CCC is a really simple repair, there's a thread on here, the transmission could be sensor/oil or something worse. Good luck and keep us posted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EPV 631 Posted July 10, 2018 2 minutes ago, MSP Motors said: Radio/nav/air con sounds like CCC issue. A friend of mine just had gearbox issue that sounds the same, drove the car for 4 hours then got transmission fault. He ended up changing the box. The CCC is a really simple repair, there's a thread on here, the transmission could be sensor/oil or something worse. Good luck and keep us posted. If it was just the transmission warning light i’d be concerned but the fact it seems to be everything in the car including air con and cruise issues I’m not panicking yet. Gearbox was serviced a year or so ago at 85k, not saying that makes it bombproof obviously... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MSP Motors 39 Posted July 10, 2018 (edited) If the radio/nav stop working, most probably it will be the CCC. I think the AC is also controlled through the CCC, but id have to double check (I've got a CCC out of the car at the moment awaiting to be sent off). If you have CCC failure many things will stop working, although that won't be the gearbox issue. Could be a temp sensor tho. The fan could be running as the car has detected the gearbox is running hot (or it thinks it is due to a faulty sensor) or the car reverts to running the fan when it detects an issue. Edited July 10, 2018 by MSP Motors A Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dave2302 387 Posted July 10, 2018 (edited) Hi, Agree with what is said here, luckily this is an older Car, so not quite as complicated as the newer stuff. I think that there is 2 separate issues here, but you never know, might get lucky and find a green Fuse that provides a ref voltage The one thing I always tell everyone is that 99.9% of the time if any Fault light has been on there Will be Codes Stored. If you are using a Generic Machine and it comes back "no codes" don't assume there are none, get it on a Dealer Level Kit !! I have, over the last 2 years invested in "Dealer Level" Diagnostic and Programming Kit for all popular Cars, because the Generic Machines like Snap On, Delphi, Launch etc simply do not access all models / all areas, and are weak when it comes to programming new and used modules. Also we are increasingly finding that a lot of used modules are "One Time Only" Programming from new, so can't be swapped from Car to Car, for example Pug / Citroen BSI's. My ageing eyesight does not allow me to un solder Chips etc for Eepromming / Virginising work, but I use a guy who is really good with that, postal service He can Virginise used modules so that with the Dealer Kit you can re program them to the vehicle you are fitting them too BMW and MINI I have just got fully loaded ISTA / INPA your techie will have heard of that, very good machine If you should need to get any Eepromming done, give me a shout and I'll put you in touch with the guy I use he's in Englandshire Oh, BTW if anyone want's a really good Generic, then look at the top end AUTEL Maxisys (around £1500), this is a great Generic and does actually do a lot of Actuations and On Line Programming work. I'll not be bothering with Snap On any more, and will only update Delphi if needed As we all know, no one machine will do all, HTH, Cheers Dave Edited July 10, 2018 by Dave2302 added info Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
justina3 518 Posted July 10, 2018 I would start with a good old wipe of all the codes and start again or you will be chasing ghosts, drive it for an hour and then the codes that pop up will be the faults. I argued with a indi garage i use for BMW stuff he claimed it had 18 codes to read well common sense would say if it hasnt been on a machine for a number of years a lot of those faults would have been repaired low tyre pressure was one and screen wash another, i am not paying you to check the screen wash. Common sense isnt common. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dave2302 387 Posted July 10, 2018 +1 /\ /\ /\ I read and clear all Vehicles when they come into my possession, long before they go out in service or get sold, that way, whatever comes back is a genuine fault Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rory RSC 596 Posted July 10, 2018 17 minutes ago, justina3 said: Common sense isnt common. Like Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mojo121 229 Posted July 10, 2018 2 hours ago, EPV said: 2004 BMW 545i tourer, 94,000 Miles. Car was driven down from Yorkshire a month ago with no issues, and has been fine until..... On a test drive the tyre pressure warning light went on. Checked all tyres which were fine, reset the system, all was well. Customer bought car. 6 hours after he bought it, he rang to say that he had a warning light go on regarding the transmission. Now this fella is a trainee mechanic so I said I was happy for him to check the status of the battery and to do nothing else and this is what he texted me; “Hi mate, it's Jay. So basically the issue is when the car is driven for a while or hard, some sort electrical gremlin pops up. So far, air con, radio/idrive has froze, cruise control doesnt work, fan kicks up high. Couple that with the transmission error and tyre pressure error from before. So I won't change anything including the battery and let your garage check it. As i said, only happens when the car is up to temp and driven for a while.” Fortunately he’s not a screamer and is realistic about cars and how they can go wrong. He’s bringing it back today to me and I’m going to get it into my regular garage and see what they can find out. I know nowt about cars, anyone got any ideas what it could be? Check the regulator on the alternator. Took me ages to diagnose a 525d of the same year. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nick M.K. 574 Posted July 10, 2018 25 minutes ago, Mojo121 said: Check the regulator on the alternator +1 on the voltage regulator (I think it's built in the alternator, can't replace separately) or the IBS (intelligent battery sensor) if fitted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Entwistle 96 Posted July 10, 2018 Def a voltage issue, had it on a few X5's. New battery and Alternator sorted for me.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stalker 180 Posted July 10, 2018 We had a E60 535d come back a couple of weeks ago with just about every electrical fault known to man.... We had it running it was charging at around 18v.... regulator fixed it. £40 at our local starter and alternator man. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EPV 631 Posted July 10, 2018 Thanks very much all for the replies, greatly appreciated. The car is back in my possession and I'll update when I've got it sorted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
twerp 69 Posted July 10, 2018 (edited) IIRC These alternators on these V8 BMWs are water cooled and part of the cooling system. Probably not helpful ! Edited July 10, 2018 by twerp Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EPV 631 Posted July 10, 2018 Update; no fault codes present but it transpires that the battery fitted is 90ah and the system is set up for a 110ah battery. It’s probable the alternator is effectively overcharging the incorrect battery and causing the electrical gremlins. Hopefully the correct battery will resolve this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stalker 180 Posted July 10, 2018 11 minutes ago, EPV said: Update; no fault codes present but it transpires that the battery fitted is 90ah and the system is set up for a 110ah battery. It’s probable the alternator is effectively overcharging the incorrect battery and causing the electrical gremlins. Hopefully the correct battery will resolve this. I wouldn't waste your money on a new battery. Splitting hairs on the difference there i reckon. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EPV 631 Posted July 10, 2018 4 minutes ago, Stalker said: I wouldn't waste your money on a new battery. Splitting hairs on the difference there i reckon. Really? Fair enough. I would have thought it was significant enough to potentially cause it. But I know fuck all about cars. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NOACROSS 414 Posted July 10, 2018 I had numerous issues on a Passat years ago. All sorts of things including the turbo got changed, to no avail. Got fed up and took it somewhere else. Long story short- they fitted a new/correct battery and all was good! I’m no mechanical expert though but seems a good punt first off, that and not buying German cars ;o) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EPV 631 Posted July 10, 2018 2 hours ago, Stalker said: We had a E60 535d come back a couple of weeks ago with just about every electrical fault known to man.... We had it running it was charging at around 18v.... regulator fixed it. £40 at our local starter and alternator man. I had a quick look on eBay for e60 alternator regulator and they are available for engines up to 3.0. Not sure if the v8 has a different regulator and possibly a different problem? This electrical gremlin problem I have seems to only occur under motorway or heavy load conditions. If it was the alterator regulator would it not occur under all conditions? Just now, NOACROSS said: I had numerous issues on a Passat years ago. All sorts of things including the turbo got changed, to no avail. Got fed up and took it somewhere else. Long story short- they fitted a new/correct battery and all was good! I’m no mechanical expert though but seems a good punt first off, that and not buying German cars ;o) Ha ha! Sold plenty of em mate without issues. All marques have their detractors. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stalker 180 Posted July 10, 2018 43 minutes ago, EPV said: I had a quick look on eBay for e60 alternator regulator and they are available for engines up to 3.0. Not sure if the v8 has a different regulator and possibly a different problem? This electrical gremlin problem I have seems to only occur under motorway or heavy load conditions. If it was the alterator regulator would it not occur under all conditions? Does it have a freewheeling pulley on the alternator? We have had these not drive the alternator and then give out a low charge, can you get the fault to happen? What is the battery voltage before and after the fault occurs? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
It's me 612 Posted July 10, 2018 8 hours ago, EPV said: I know nowt about cars, anyone got any ideas what it could be? if it came into me i would be checking earths power leads from aircon alternator whether the alternator was indeed pushing out to muck current a proper assessment of the battery type and condition and also i would be thinking is it all related to an abs problem Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
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