Halfpenny

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Halfpenny last won the day on February 24

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About Halfpenny

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    Independent dealer
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    HP Motors Group

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  1. Recent pricing levels are not sustainable, its as simple as that. People have only got so much money to spend, its not rocket science. Looking at my own bills and already starting to feel the squeeze. Its going to be all about the timing, don't get stuck with a load of ugly stock.
  2. There are various different part numbers for these diffs. I don't know how they vary, probably best to consult a specialist. I must say that JLR are one of the brands on my 'no buy' list. Too many problems.
  3. The diff is basically a sealed unit. Your mechanic will remove propshaft, driveshafts etc and various rear suspension and subframe components. Unbolt the old diff. Bolt in the new diff and refit all the external parts. It 'relatively' straightfoward. Assuming you can get hold of a servicable diff then it will have no impact at all on power delivery.
  4. You don't need a diff specialist to fit it. Its not a technically difficult job, just a lot of work. I reckon it would be 4-5 hours labour on an XF.
  5. Agreed. Mechanic says cables fine but they are difficult to check. Often feel smooth when disconnected but drag when under load. Its fairly cheap and easy to change so try it first.
  6. Diff issues are quite common on the Jags. The problem is that most dealer/repairer mechanics don't have the knowledge and experience to repair diffs - you need a specialist diff rebuilder. I am an old-school mechanic and have rebuilt plenty of diffs in the past. Its a black art to get them quiet. Mostly the dealers will replace the oil seal and just torque the pinion nut up to factory spec. That is NOT the way to do it, because it takes no account of the fact that the collapsible spacer (which sits between the pinion bearings and provides preload) has already been crushed when originally tightened. Re-tightening to factory spec actually crushes the spacer a bit more and puts too much preload on the bearings. They make noise, and furthermore the gear teeth get out alignment and also make a noise. Eventually the bearings fail. The best way to replace the seal is to use the original nut and mark it. On reassembly use so Loctite and return it to the exact same marked position. The tightening torque will be way below factory spec. In your case the damage is already done. The diff will need stripping, new collapsible spacer, then tooth contact setting with new shims. It will be expensive (labour). If you find a good used diff then go that route. But you won't know how good it is until its installed and been driven. You could be back to square one. Inadequate spec on the original seals in the problem here. Bloody JLR lack of development/testing/QC !
  7. A lot of eBay sellers trade on the ignorance of the buyer. They know that many buyers won't check the price of a new part and will make the assumption that a used part must be cheaper. A lot of parts sourced from the EU are now more expensive because tax and import charges are being added. We used to order MB and BMW parts from a supplier in Germany. They offered 24 hour shipping and were significantly cheaper than UK suppliers with great availability - especially on electrical/electronic parts. Prior to Brexit there were no extra taxes to pay - but then last year we got hit with £80 of import taxes and 'collection fee' on a £150 part! So that put an end to that option...
  8. Been with HSBC for many years but getting more and more difficult. Recently went to pay in £1000 cash and got questioned 'is it your account, is it your money'!!! Unbelieveable. This was a bank found guilty of moving billions for Mexican drug dealers..
  9. Yes, you should always challenge a chargeback. A well-prepared response takes time but can be successful. The thing is, a lot of sellers are reluctant to take credit cards because of S75, not realising that a debit card is not much better and in some ways worse. I had one chargeback attempt TWO YEARS after I sold the car! Was successfully dismissed. But banks always take the customers side!
  10. I can 100% assure you that debit cards and pre-paid credit cards are not covered by Section 75 of the CCA. Only credit cards. Debit cards are provided by Mastercard, Visa and AmEx. These companies run the payment system. The cards are then issued to customers by the banks and 'linked' to the customer's bank account. Debit card chargeback has no backing in law. Its a voluntary scheme. If a customer has a problem with a car then they can complain to the card issuer (bank) who pass this through to the provider (e.g. MC). If MC agree with the customer then they will make a chargeback. But as a seller you can challenge this. Customer has 120 days after noticing a problem in which to make a chargeback claim. Unfortunately MC, visa etc are so powerful that there is not much you can do about a chargeback in practise. In reality a debit card payment offers you, the seller, no more protection against clawback than a credit card. The only advantage is that a lot of customers know about S75 protection, but not many know about debit card chargeback.
  11. Section 75 of the Consumer Credit Act only covers credit cards - nothing to do with debit cards. Debit cards fall under the banks' voluntary 'chargeback' scheme which has no legal backing......
  12. Normally this would mean difficulty selecting gears with engine running and vehicle static. Most likely a clutch issue - clutch failing to fully disengage (could be a problem with release mechanism, centre plate or pressure plate).
  13. On the service side we have the facilities and experience to fix most things - but not these Dualogic nightmares!! Dualogics are basically a manual gearbox with a 'robot' bolted on to select gears and operate the clutch. Now some years ago both Toyota and Honda tried this approach and neither could get it to work reliably and gave up - they went to CVT. So if the Japs couldn't do it, do you think the Italians can? Almost any fault puts them into neutral (to protect the gearbox) unfortunately. Scan often doesn't show anything. From what you have described it could possibly be a faulty selector position sensor. But I think this could turn into a bit of a saga for you....
  14. In your price range you will not get a professional level tool - it will be top end consumer level. Look at products from Topdon and Foxwell - both do a range of devices around your budget.
  15. Good thing about AutoAid is it includes cover for your partner. My daughter got some kind of discount coupon for RAC - personal cover only cost her £35 for the year.