EPV

Ha ha ha i used to drive a comp pack m4 vert. Brand new, loaded, £75k list price. That went and I now have a supercharged RR. This isn’t a brag but just me making a point of agreeing that I now fancy myself driving a Focus Estate. I reckon in a few years i’ll be keeping my eye out for a Kia Soul. So I actually have one.

Quite the business model I have to say.

What's a general approx percentage or fee that most franchises would be paying to put their cars through the block?

I’m sure you chaps have all been here before to some degree. All of a sudden for no reason you’ll sell 6 in a week and start to panic about not having enough stock!

*LIKE*

Which is how I view it but the point has been previously mentioned that it's a useful way to engage your buyers, if you have it up for £4,995 and someone makes an offer of £4,700 you can contact them to say you're close on price and that £4,850 would do it. I can see how that would work. It's something of a moot point for me anyway as I've fucked eBay off out of it.

Photos are a significant improvement. Fair play for taking the advice and putting the effort in. It amazes me the amount of cars I see advertised that are so badly photographed you think that the trader must hate money, or himself.

I may have given the wrong impression here, I want something a bit more robust than bumper and trim restorer, so I wondered whether a rubberised paint might be the answer, or, this Plastidip gear. My painter said he couldn't do anything with it. I'm not sure whether you can spray plastic bumpers with regular paint, won't it just eventually crack and flake?

I'm looking for something to tart up a black plastic bumper on a Qashqai, quite why any manufacturer insists on having anything other than colour coded bumpers is beyond me, it looks shite. Anyway, I was thinking along the line of a rubber paint type thing, will this gear do the job do we think?

2015 I believe

Been away for a fortnight so wouldn’t have sold anything anyway but haven’t had a shed load of enquiries. Concerning slightly as i’m just about to go full time at this!

Name and shame on Twitter, threaten to close account etc. The only language some of these c*nts understand.

I can assure you I’ve been called worse by several members of my friends and family I’m going to spam it with requests for everyone to share their sources of clean stock that cap at below. I know you all achieve this 24/7....

Admin, i’ve sent a couple of emails now with a request to get access and a copy of my trade insurance, to the blackball email address. Could I be granted access pretty please? cheers

More specifically, if the OP can prove it wasn’t.

Your 2p is the same as my 2p!

That reminds me, my eBay account manager said that you can only have best offer enabled when you place a standard buy it now advert or in other words, not a classified. So do you use buy it now adverts?

You’re half right but it’s not that simple. Can you prove the fault was not present at the point of sale? If so, the consumer can’t ask for a refund BUT you have to provide a repair as it’s unreasonable to sell a £9k car and for it to go pop in 3 months. You can’t just shrug your shoulders and say “well that’s just bad luck” i’m afraid. Up to the 6 month period you are liable for at least a repair, excluding wear and tear

I agree. Until someone has proven themselves to me to be a complete tool I think I can sell them a car. I do also agree about someone ringing as well, if they are serious.

In my opinion you have to make a car stand out to encourage people to click on your ad. If every other car out there looks like yours what will make them click on your ad? I had a white c class estate a couple of weeks ago, I specifically bought it because? It had black 18” amg alloys on it and I know it would stand out a mile against every other silver or black c class estate out there. It was sold within 3 days. Irrespective of what you like it’s what stands out and sells that counts!

If you haven’t explicitly said that the customer must return the vehicle in the event if a repair required then you’re on the back foot. It all depends on how much of a fight you want. Ultimately if this went all the way you’d lose, as said above. It’s not great to have to sell a car that’s changed owners so quickly so i’d say you’re doing the right thing, getting it diagnosed and assess the damage from there. Did you do a PDI?

The devil is in the detail. A correctly worded pdi would state no such leak at the time of sale and said customer would sign it and therefore making it virtually impossible to prove it was there at point of sale. No correctly worded pdi leaves you vulnerable. Suggest to him that he returns it to you for further inspection and diagnosis. You’ll soon know if this is buyers remorse or a genuine issue. Take it from there.

On a related subject, has anyone had any joy getting the DVLA to amend a discrepancy on a V5? I’m looking at buying a 2 owner Car that is showing 16 previous owners (an error basically) but don’t want to plough in if the DVLA are likely to cock a deaf un?

I love Rangies, I own a supercharged 2011 RR with every optional extra on and its just a dream to drive but selling 12-15 year old Rangies would give me the horrors. I’d want £3k in it and would be paying through the nose for a third party 6 month warranty. They’re an enigma, like Alfas, can and do go wrong a lot but people love em.

This has piqued my interest. I’ve always thought £100 a corner perhaps £300 a set but that’s diamond cut, never owned a set of standard alloys personally or at least never refurbished them. So £50 a corner is reasonable but you can “have a go” yourself? Anyone care to share a reliable technique for refurbing a standard alloy?