Locking wheel nut removal set / tool?

[Nick M.K. 574]

What was the name of that locking wheel nut removal tool that was recommended here a while ago??

[EPV 631]

A 20mm socket and a gippo 

[Nick M.K. 574]

There was a more efficient solution than that, a whole tool set which everyone said could remove anything. 

Obviously before posting on here I have tried a couple of possible solutions with the only result my wasted time :-)

Edited February 22, 2019 by Nick M.K.

[Mark101 536]

4 minutes ago, Nick M.K. said:

There was a more efficient solution than that, a whole tool set which everyone said could remove anything. 

Obviously before posting on here I have tried a couple of possible solutions with the only result my wasted time :-)

What car Nick?  I have had this of course.  Merc to Main Dealer, £25 and 5 mins with car and I have a new appropriate key.

[Stephen 21]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110730973963?ul_noapp=true

DYNOMEC worth a look aswell

[Stalker 180]

Dynomec nick, never ever got stuck with one we couldn’t get off. 

[It's me 612]

wear safety glasses and thick gloves

better still see if local tyre bay do a removal service

[DPF 18]

my local tyre place charged £10.

[Nick M.K. 574]

4 hours ago, DPF said:

my local tyre place charged £10.

Are they also local to me, post code HP8? 

[Dave2302 387]

It's like a diagnostic machine, no one kit does all, believe me I hate the fuckers with a passion, but have never failed to remove one successfully and I don't damage the wheels.

[ExCouncilJobsworth 27]

Get a multi line socket that is slightly bigger than the nut and hammer it over so it wont come off.

Take off the nuts with wrench. 

Multline socket will be stuck over the removed nut so hammer through it to free the 2 and repeat. 

10 minute job for all 4.

[It's me 612]

10 minutes ago, ExCouncilJobsworth said:

Get a multi line socket that is slightly bigger than the nut and hammer it over so it wont come off.

Take off the nuts with wrench. 

Multline socket will be stuck over the removed nut so hammer through it to free the 2 and repeat. 

10 minute job for all 4.

best of luck with  mcgard types it took 8 hours to remove 4 6 months ago and i have every tool possible to remove them,had to gas axe them in the end thus damaging the paint on the wheels,looks like they had never ever been off and all dealer had done was look through the rim and say brakes ok, for every lie he stamped in

on a similar note car came in yesterday over 11 months mot and the back brake pipe is beyond a disgrace and they havent even scraped it to assess for the mot

[Stalker 180]

The dynomec works well on the mcgard ones Dave, I find you have to use a big lump hammer and the impact driver that comes with the kit and persist with it. 

 

I have a plasma cutter coming, I wonder if it will work on locknuts. 

[It's me 612]

6 minutes ago, Stalker said:

The dynomec works well on the mcgard ones Dave, I find you have to use a big lump hammer and the impact driver that comes with the kit and persist with it. 

 

I have a plasma cutter coming, I wonder if it will work on locknuts. 

i think a ductor heater might be better,they are now down to £200 direct from china

thanks regards dynomec but like everything else i seem to buy i use it once and it ends up in the cupboard of tools not used,i note its made by that sheffield company and to be fair they are good at sending replacement parts out at a cost but some things feel like they were made to break (fiesta void tool)

[Nick M.K. 574]

The car yesterday was a MINI, the lock was present but damaged and they were indeed McGuard. They have a security system which will prevent a nut to just be hammered on. 

will this image link work here:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10157151053376115&set=pcb.2225971587720647&type=3&theater&ifg=1 

We had to resort to welding...

[Mark101 536]

2 minutes ago, Nick M.K. said:

The car yesterday was a MINI, the lock was present but damaged and they were indeed McGuard. They have a security system which will prevent a nut to just be hammered on. 

will this image link work here:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10157151053376115&set=pcb.2225971587720647&type=3&theater&ifg=1 

Not if it is the same as the link

Sorry, this content isn't available at the moment

[It's me 612]

18 minutes ago, Nick M.K. said:

 

We had to resort to welding...

some deep recessed wheels you cant get in to weld an old wheel nut on the end because the gas from the torch stops the welding process

however heat from the torch can help to loosen the nut

obviously knock seven bells out of it first

this is where gloves and goggles come in too

or let tyre bay do it

[Nick M.K. 574]

Luckily the wheels were going in for full refurb anyway.

 

Here you go: 

 

 

 

[Stalker 180]

10 minutes ago, Nick M.K. said:

Luckily the wheels were going in for full refurb anyway.

 

Here you go: 

 

 

 

The dynomec kit would have them off in 10 mins. No damage to the wheel. 

[Mark101 536]

 

[Dave2302 387]

21 hours ago, Nick M.K. said:

We had to resort to welding..

I have a set of different reverse threaded hammer ons, but yep, when they dont work, out comes a bit of Rebar, the Stillsons and the Welder, the less recessed they are the less likely I am to damage the Wheel Paint, loads of Masking Tape and a wet cloth, weld quick then stop the masking from going alight with wet cloth, usually get 'em first go now, I grind the end of the rebar to a point so you get a good weld.

Those in the above pic look like they are fairly well recessed, I'd be expecting a wheel refurb, and if I get 'em without burning, bonus !! 

I like the look of that kit, might give it a go, is it very dear ?

HTH

Edited February 24, 2019 by Dave2302

[Mark101 536]

42 minutes ago, Dave2302 said:

I have a set of different reverse threaded hammer ons, but yep, when they dont work, out comes a bit of Rebar, the Stillsons and the Welder, the less recessed they are the less likely I am to damage the Wheel Paint, loads of Masking Tape and a wet cloth, weld quick then stop the masking from going alight with wet cloth, usually get 'em first go now, I grind the end of the rebar to a point so you get a good weld.

Those in the above pic look like they are fairly well recessed, I'd be expecting a wheel refurb, and if I get 'em without burning, bonus !! 

I like the look of that kit, might give it a go, is it very dear ?

HTH

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172816584940

Not dear IMO vs. the last minute hassle when you realise LWNK is missing

[Dave2302 387]

35 minutes ago, Mark101 said:

Not dear IMO vs. the last minute hassle when you realise LWNK is missing

Yeah, I agree with you ....................

I see they sell spare "Blades" by the bucket load though 

How often do you have to change them IRL, are they 'use once' or do they last for ages if you're not using them like a Gorilla every day ?

[Mark101 536]

4 minutes ago, Dave2302 said:

Yeah, I agree with you ....................

I see they sell spare "Blades" by the bucket load though 

How often do you have to change them IRL, are they 'use once' or do they last for ages if you're not using them like a Gorilla every day ?

I imagine a tyre shop would get through sets but only once so far have I had a locking wheel nut issue.  I reckon I would use it once or twice a year and probably last me ages.  No idea though as I don't have one myself.......yet.

[peter..o 8]

Does that kit do the Pug?citroen 4 pun type nuts,they are the only ones that we struggle with,on the video it says will cover every type of locknut,always a bit dubious about those claims.We use a firm called Evo Automotive for a lot of replacement locking keys,just take a good quality photo and e mail to them and if it was opbne of their designs will send a replacement key in abot 1 or 2 days for about £16.00,very helpfull firm.but we do struggle with those citroen types,you can order the from citroen wiyh chassis no. but is about £70.00!!!