D&M

+1

Diagnostic tools are only good as its user! Unless you know whats going on, that fault code might not mean that part is faulty. End up either tearing your hair out and throwing it back through the ring, or finally giving up and taking it to your mechanic to be told that you should have bought it their first as you wouldn't have needed to replace this, that and whatever to still be at square 1. Having said that.... We got a handheld Autel one that cost about £80. My knowledge goes as far as checking the codes, deleting them, a good drive and see what comes back - then straight up to the mechanic to fix it.

We would offer a good will gesture to keep the peace - You pay parts, they pay labour or vice versa. The part that has failed isn't brand new. Before making any offers, make sure the car has been properly diagnosed so you're sure you aren't dealing with someone just trying to get a few ££ back. If you do decide to do that, make sure you have a document written to state that the offer you make is a full and final settlement to repair the issue (especially if they use their own garage - misdiagnosis shouldn't hit you in the pocket).

Thanks for the tip - Now you've said that I recall the damper being mentioned as a common failure point previously on the forum. Thanks for the video - I checked that out and that was indeed the issue, oval shaped hole causing the spongy feel at the top of the pedal travel and has raised the bite point so the car is much better. All repaired now!

Morning all, We're just prepping a Hyundai ix20 1.6CRDi The clutch bite is really low, otherwise fine - maybe a bit spongy at the top 1/3 of the pedal travel, but not sure if that is normal for these. Tried bleeding it, but there is no air in the system. Was supposed to have had a new clutch 20k, 2 years ago. I remember this being discussed previously as a common issue, but can't find the thread now! Is that a new clutch job, or clutch and flywheel? Or something I've missed completely - we haven't had a Hyundai/Kia 1.6 diesel for age! Advise and suggestions appreciated. Many thanks

Since when did price boards shoot up in price? Looking to replace mine with plain ones - where have you all sourced from? I don't mean to sound cheap but last time I bought them, they weren't a fiver a time! Many thanks

Thanks for such a speedy reply. You're right, there is a recess in the NS wheel arch. All suspension seems fine and wheels and tyres are standard size. 80 year old owner from new, so can't imagine it's been anything other than bog standard! *Edit* Just to finish off the thread, I just cleaned out behind the filler neck of all the crud, adjusted it inwards as much as I could using the bottom bolts. It still sits quite close to the wheel, but that is just how it sits as it can't go in any further.

Hi All, First time having a 12 plate Hyundai i10 in. Giving it a pre-MOT, I've noticed that the fuel filler neck is super close to the rear wheel, and some of the rubber covering on one of the pipes is a little worn where it's rubber on the wheel. Car was very dirty and crud was pushing the neck out a little. Is it normal to be that close? Thanks chaps!

Thanks for your help. I can't confirm whether it work or not as it was trailered off to the main dealer before they tried! Thanks again

Thanks for the responses. Its the newer shape one with the gear selector on the steering column... As far as I know, everything works as it should. It just wont come out of Park. So far, it doesn't seem like there is a way to do it manually!

Hi chaps, Looking for a bit of help for a local garage. They've got a 2016 Mercedes B-Class 4x4. They've changed the battery, but for some reason or another the car wont let the gearbox come out of Park. Is there any manual release anywhere to make it easier to transport back to the dealer for re coding! Thanks in advance!

If you tax by DD and keep cancelling the DD when you sell, DVLA will eventually block your bank details and you won't be able to tax again using the same details. Best of luck with the new venture!

Think of it as a discount avoider. No, I can't knock £50 off the price - it's got a full tank of fuel!

Thanks all for your replies - sorry its taken so long to get back. We're going down the easier (and cheaper!) route of getting a second hand box fitted. After a fair bit of searching, and not finding any gearboxes with the same part number it seems that any 6 Speed Fiat gearbox from a 1368 16v engine will work with the MiTo, so Grande Punto/Punto Evo/500/Panda 100HP etc. The part number seems to have no effect on the actual fitment of the box, just depends on which version as Fiat made so many updates to it, so as long as it comes out of a same age or newer car, it'll be grand. Thanks again

Hi All, We've got a little MiTo in at the moment - its the 1.4 16v 95BHP Non Turbo model. The gearbox needs repair/replacement as its very noisy and can't be put into gear unless you're releasing the clutch to make it pop in. Sticks in reverse too! Easiest option would be a 2nd hand box from a breaker, but wondering if anyone here could recommend a gearbox guy to try. Thanks!