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It’s all about small edges adding up isn’t it?

Glad your getting on with it, it isnt rocket science and saves a small fortune over the years, in the block watching cars go though i often here people pricing up marks and scuffs and i am thinking we will get that out in house for a little effort.

Steering wheel may need recalibration

if putting metallic onto a basecoat scratch then ideally you want to put it on as 80% thinners 20% paint and even then its going to be hard getting the flakes to not reflect badly if it was say silver i would advise dont do it you then need to build it up touching all the bits in walking round and round the car,this way its dry when you go back to the first one if a dark blue fair enough once basecoat proper dry then top off with lacquer,again i thin it down and build it up i then let to cure for one full day then cut back with old fashioned 2000 and then g5 with the buff machine the easiest way is to blend in the damage with a gun going down to a 90% thinner mix then lacquer the whole panel,(posh people use fade out thinners i dont) this is why smart repair came about theres no real short cuts i wont be buying a denibber im a wetndry man through and through

i had the sri version with the boot,spent 6 months looking for a nice one,bought it ran it a year took a real tumble on the price as everyone wanted hatches back then never bought a family booted car for myself since in what 23 years

You’re probably going to need to compound and polish after you’ve flattened the paint with the tool, so it will do no harm to light wetsand before the paint.

NAMA vehicle grades. 1 being near mint 5 being destruction derby. Well, not quite.

The factory paint is applied in perfect conditions, correct heat - spray applications, 3-4 coats to build a decent layer/depth of paint.. in using a "blob of paint" the you tube vid I saw suggested metal flake goes to the bottom.. think it was actually in the comments below a video from an experienced painter as it was a advice/tip really - but I for sure had not thought or considered it.. Grading is from BCA vehicle grading.. but these really are for trader humor - they do not reflect reality.. Spot on EPV, route to follow here with this positive feedback.. Ta

Those photos are shit.

I turned a grade 4 into a grade 1 over the last two days. £180 for the full front bumper smart repair and a wet sand, touch in, compound and polish by myself. I’d say in total I spent 6 hours myself, £10 worth of material and £180 on a smart repair.

If they are clearcoat scratches wet sand, 1500, 3000 and then compound and polish. 30 mins from start to finish. But yes, if you wanted to drop clearcoat into a scratch and nip it off with this tool it will work.

Just think of the things you can spot over this weekend that need "denibbing".. Whole new world out there.. dont tell them down the block, BCA will make all grade 4 grade 2.. Any ideas on if this will work on a deep clear coat repair and buff up? ie filling scratch with a clear coat to fill groove then "festool away" and buff?

I think I’m not explaining myself or not getting what you’re saying. The results are returned by best match as a default. You scroll through the results, you’ll see the first advert, then the second, then the third and so on. Forget re-filtering based on price or distance that’s not what I’m talking about Someone or something has to decide which advert is shown first, second, third and so on as a default under best match. I don’t know what that something or someone is.

https://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/Festool-Lzk-Hm-4014549147788-Spot-Repair-Scraper quick delivery

£100 deposit please.