AW Motorgroup

Members
  • Content Count

    31
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by AW Motorgroup

  1. I used to be with Autoguard and changed to Handler warranty and seems to be working out for the best as 19 cars sold in July. They got a promotion currently so a 6 month warranty they are adding 2 months extra free so it’s an 8 month cover around £120 gold cover. It’s down to personal preference for me on self fund as I don’t want to deal with it once I’ve counted the money and prefer the warranty company to deal with it however the onus is always on us dealers as the per the 30 day/6 month laws so it’s best to make sure a decent Pre Delivery Inspection is done so you do the main checks before you flip it. This gives a bit of confidence on your stock. If you get a comeback you can go through the warranty BUT it all depends on the level of cover you want to spend on and if they don't cover the fault under there t&c’s then you will still have to fix it. I find warranty’s add confidence to the sale which equals to a more probable sale, however it all comes down to what your retailing in the first place... 55 plate Yaris with 120k on the clock vs 13 plate Fiesta with 22k on it... and that’s where warranty’s can help on the repairing issues vs if taken to court with in 6 months of not fixing the faults etc. I hope this helps mate. Cheers, Amer.
  2. For the last 9 years I've been using a multimeter which I bought for £10 quid. I can check the battery voltage and the alternator, as rule of thumb a charged battery should hold between 12.6-12.9v. Then start the car and the voltage should be anything from 13.9v-14.4v which shows that the alternator charging system is working for my PDI. If your battery is below 12.6v its on its way out from my experience, you could try charing it over night (i use a Ring RCB320 workshop battery charger) and see if it brings it up to level, if it don't then get yourself a new battery. If your alternator is not getting you a minimum of 13.9v its on its way out so get that sorted before you flip the motor. Using the multimeter is cheap cost effective and gives me the confidence that the battery and charging system are good before its sold as like you I hate complaining whining customers post sale lol. If your up for forking out 100-200 quid you can get one which prints it out for you and it will save you some time in the testing part, personally i enjoy testing it with the multimeter lol cheap thrills i guess Anyways i hope this helps mate. Cheers, Amer.
  3. We used this for my Mrs as she has an independent accountancy business. The cost of the ad campaign vs the actual enquires/clients was very low. Infact i don't think she actually generated and new leads from it so we cancelled after paying £250 over a 3 month ad campaign. The problem is that google ads will take your money regardless. As an example if you have 10 clicks to your site or someone searched for "my local car dealer" you will have to pay a lot to just to get the top spot on the feed and then if the person does not follow the enquiry through or even call you on a car, it doesn't matter to google they will still charge you on the ad campaign. My personal advice would be not to do google ads in the car trade, as selling on Autoraper / Gumtree last price / Fleebay is hard enough let alone getting extra charges from google ads and a possible no enquiry. Better of getting your website SEP so it appears on google at a higher ranking etc which also is very long winded and expensive but thats another convo lol. Hope this helps. Cheers, Amer.