EPV

Paint depth gauge

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Rather not spend £150 on one as I don’t work in a body shop but as I am starting to get into the realms of wetsanding and compounding more and more cars I think it’s wise to have one. 

Any recommendations? 

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I don't think they're that expensive.. I "acquired" mine but just had a quick look on eBay and they start from £30.

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Indeed but I just want to make sure i’m not buying a toy. I don’t want to spend £150 but £30 will be expensive if it doesn’t do the job and I end up burning through clearcoat and needing a smart repair! If anyone has bought a £30-50 jobbie and it’s worked satisfactorily then i’m happy to take a punt 

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Should be fine i would  of thought, do you know the safe limit in microns?

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17 minutes ago, Tom said:

Should be fine i would  of thought, do you know the safe limit in microns?

No but according to my smart repairer, each manufacturer works differently and you can find out their paint depth by calling the main dealers. 

Obviously when something has been repainted it’s a different story, what’s your experience when dealing with safe micron levels? 

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<80 microns is thin paint average standard paint is circa 120 microns resprayed panels are usually >150 microns. 

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12 minutes ago, Tom said:

<80 microns is thin paint average standard paint is circa 120 microns resprayed panels are usually >150 microns. 

Great rule of thumb, thanks for that mate. 

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2 hours ago, Tom said:

do you know the safe limit in microns?

My bodyshop has told me to measure the thickness of the clearcoat by comparing the painted door shuts with the external panels. Door shuts have less clearcoat because they are not exposed to the elements. Can someone confirm this?

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Never really seen the advantage for my useage, great invention if your detailing cars daily 

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6 hours ago, Nick M.K. said:

My bodyshop has told me to measure the thickness of the clearcoat by comparing the painted door shuts with the external panels. Door shuts have less clearcoat because they are not exposed to the elements. Can someone confirm this?

I doubt it - it maybe that the door shuts are in original condition because of a lack of exposure but have you never seen a car being painted at the factory?  Doors off or at least open and robots applying paint finish.  Can't see a robot discriminating between a door shut and a panel.  I reckon during re-finishing, door shuts don't get re-lacquered because the doors are shut during masking and possibly they weren't damaged and therefore didn't require and work in the first place.  In my experience, a rrepaired panel will have more paint than factory anyway.

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7 hours ago, Nick M.K. said:

My bodyshop has told me to measure the thickness of the clearcoat by comparing the painted door shuts with the external panels. Door shuts have less clearcoat because they are not exposed to the elements. Can someone confirm this?

Other Way around they will have more clearcoat. Bit like when you take stickers off a van the paint underneath is raised because it had been protected. 

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Mine cost me £220 back in the day but I do a lot of machine polishing. Some paint thin some thick. Some hard some soft. Honda being the worst being very soft. German cars being the best to polish and wet sand if needed as very hard. Wouldn't put a pad on paint without one to be honest. 

Use the 3M polish normally in various stages or whatever's needed. Top off with a decent sealant and they look superb. 

 

Hi all by the way from a new guy. Been in it from the days of advertising in the Birmingham Evening Mail and that Pink paper I can't remember the name of.  Getting on a bit now. 

 

Great site with some great info. You never stop learning do you  

 

Russell

 

 

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That was it. Many thanks. The memories are flooding back as I type. 

Yes was brilliant. Used to run a 4" block advert in the Mail. Was very proud at the time haha. Name in lights and all that. Grown up a bit since then. 

Thanks for the welcome. 

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1 hour ago, RHO said:

Mine cost me £220 back in the day but I do a lot of machine polishing. Some paint thin some thick. Some hard some soft. Honda being the worst being very soft. German cars being the best to polish and wet sand if needed as very hard. Wouldn't put a pad on paint without one to be honest. 

Use the 3M polish normally in various stages or whatever's needed. Top off with a decent sealant and they look superb. 

 

Hi all by the way from a new guy. Been in it from the days of advertising in the Birmingham Evening Mail and that Pink paper I can't remember the name of.  Getting on a bit now. 

 

Great site with some great info. You never stop learning do you  

 

Russell

 

 

Welcome. 

 

You must be joking re German paint hardness being good. I had my cousins c63 amg in to bring up to retail standard and I hit it with 1500, 3000 and then 3m’s perfect it system, so a five stage correction. Still had some minor swirls. It’s only 2 years old. Like fucking granite. 

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Hit it with 3M green on a hard pad and finish with Blue on a soft normally works for me. What a pleasure when finished. 

Hard work but customers don't walk away from cars at this level. Give them the keys and walk away. Mind you C63 would not be on our forecourt. Having enough headaches with an older G Wagen. Never again. 

Thanks for the welcome guys. 

 

Russell

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