EPV 631 Posted August 10, 2018 I turned a grade 4 into a grade 1 over the last two days. £180 for the full front bumper smart repair and a wet sand, touch in, compound and polish by myself. I’d say in total I spent 6 hours myself, £10 worth of material and £180 on a smart repair. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
michelin 3 Posted August 10, 2018 Hi, Good point re the metallic flakes but I have to ask how they go about it in the factory then? I've spent weeks researching this tool both on Youtube and though forums and this is the first time I've struck up decent conversations as to what we will be doing. :-) Stone chip repair should be a breeze whereas proper scratches a little more time consuming. One question I must ask is should I wet and dry just the scratch to smooth it out a litte? It was a key apparently so possible jaged. Thanks 5 minutes ago, EPV said: I turned a grade 4 into a grade 1 over the last two days. £180 for the full front bumper smart repair and a wet sand, touch in, compound and polish by myself. I’d say in total I spent 6 hours myself, £10 worth of material and £180 on a smart repair. Can you explain the grades please? thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Area 51 33 Posted August 10, 2018 12 minutes ago, michelin said: Hi, Good point re the metallic flakes but I have to ask how they go about it in the factory then? I've spent weeks researching this tool both on Youtube and though forums and this is the first time I've struck up decent conversations as to what we will be doing. :-) Stone chip repair should be a breeze whereas proper scratches a little more time consuming. One question I must ask is should I wet and dry just the scratch to smooth it out a litte? It was a key apparently so possible jaged. Thanks Can you explain the grades please? thanks The factory paint is applied in perfect conditions, correct heat - spray applications, 3-4 coats to build a decent layer/depth of paint.. in using a "blob of paint" the you tube vid I saw suggested metal flake goes to the bottom.. think it was actually in the comments below a video from an experienced painter as it was a advice/tip really - but I for sure had not thought or considered it.. Grading is from BCA vehicle grading.. but these really are for trader humor - they do not reflect reality.. 19 minutes ago, EPV said: I turned a grade 4 into a grade 1 over the last two days. £180 for the full front bumper smart repair and a wet sand, touch in, compound and polish by myself. I’d say in total I spent 6 hours myself, £10 worth of material and £180 on a smart repair. Spot on EPV, route to follow here with this positive feedback.. Ta 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EPV 631 Posted August 10, 2018 19 minutes ago, michelin said: Hi, Good point re the metallic flakes but I have to ask how they go about it in the factory then? I've spent weeks researching this tool both on Youtube and though forums and this is the first time I've struck up decent conversations as to what we will be doing. :-) Stone chip repair should be a breeze whereas proper scratches a little more time consuming. One question I must ask is should I wet and dry just the scratch to smooth it out a litte? It was a key apparently so possible jaged. Thanks Can you explain the grades please? thanks NAMA vehicle grades. 1 being near mint 5 being destruction derby. Well, not quite. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
michelin 3 Posted August 10, 2018 (edited) Got ya! Thanks for the replies. I'm quietly confident that I can do this scratch especially with the Festool. I think I'll apply paint this weekend to just shy of the top and then follow up with clear. I'll let it set for 9 days as I'm away to Gran Canaria :-) What about sanding the scratch per my previous post? Thanks Edited August 10, 2018 by michelin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EPV 631 Posted August 10, 2018 You’re probably going to need to compound and polish after you’ve flattened the paint with the tool, so it will do no harm to light wetsand before the paint. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
michelin 3 Posted August 10, 2018 On 06/08/2018 at 3:27 PM, EPV said: yeah, that's the usual process although it's razor, 1500, 3000 (both trizac pads) and them 3M perfect it system (green, yellow, blue) and if done right it's brilliant but I was making more scratches with the razor blade. It's almost too aggressive. Another here for the 3M system. It's so simple given the colour system. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
It's me 615 Posted August 10, 2018 if putting metallic onto a basecoat scratch then ideally you want to put it on as 80% thinners 20% paint and even then its going to be hard getting the flakes to not reflect badly if it was say silver i would advise dont do it you then need to build it up touching all the bits in walking round and round the car,this way its dry when you go back to the first one if a dark blue fair enough once basecoat proper dry then top off with lacquer,again i thin it down and build it up i then let to cure for one full day then cut back with old fashioned 2000 and then g5 with the buff machine the easiest way is to blend in the damage with a gun going down to a 90% thinner mix then lacquer the whole panel,(posh people use fade out thinners i dont) this is why smart repair came about theres no real short cuts i wont be buying a denibber im a wetndry man through and through 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EPV 631 Posted August 10, 2018 1 hour ago, michelin said: Another here for the 3M system. It's so simple given the colour system. It’s as dusty as fuck and the compound is hard work in the heat but if you get it right I can’t fault the results. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
justina3 518 Posted August 10, 2018 21 hours ago, EPV said: Loving the Festool block Justin, you need to be careful and get the right angle with it on curved body panels but it's a great but of kit. I'm discovering that you can really load the paint up and get it pretty much all over the gaff and it will still get ot off. Obviously I don't aim to do that but you don't have to be shy with the paint either. Glad your getting on with it, it isnt rocket science and saves a small fortune over the years, in the block watching cars go though i often here people pricing up marks and scuffs and i am thinking we will get that out in house for a little effort. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EPV 631 Posted August 10, 2018 Just now, justina3 said: Glad your getting on with it, it isnt rocket science and saves a small fortune over the years, in the block watching cars go though i often here people pricing up marks and scuffs and i am thinking we will get that out in house for a little effort. It’s all about small edges adding up isn’t it? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Area 51 33 Posted August 10, 2018 11 minutes ago, EPV said: It’s all about small edges adding up isn’t it? That it is, and also learning a few new tricks... certainly enjoyed this thread as I suspect many lurkers have too! Poet's day... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
david gott 58 Posted August 10, 2018 Can anybody recommend and good lacquer in a spray can for smart repairs? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sparky 274 Posted August 10, 2018 8 hours ago, michelin said: Another here for the 3M system. It's so simple given the colour system. Autosmart have just brought out a similar system with upgraded products which we are liking so far. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
justina3 518 Posted August 10, 2018 5 minutes ago, sparky said: Autosmart have just brought out a similar system with upgraded products which we are liking so far. About time they did something with the evo range the polishes are ok the pads are still poor IMO don’t compare to hex or schol concepts but to be fair there not priced the same either. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
It's me 615 Posted August 10, 2018 49 minutes ago, david gott said: Can anybody recommend and good lacquer in a spray can for smart repairs? i cant thing is it would be i pack rather than 2pack so takes ages to cure with 2 pack you can heat gun the area up use the 2 pack and be cutting it in half an hour later and sell the car the same day Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
michelin 3 Posted August 11, 2018 13 hours ago, Area 51 said: That it is, and also learning a few new tricks... certainly enjoyed this thread as I suspect many lurkers have too! Poet's day... I've enjoyed this thread too especially given the thoughts on the Festool denibber. I appreciate the older ways as well as the new so no harm in trying the latter. The Porsche will be getting its scratch cleaned out today and filled with paint so I'm just wondering if I should leave the paint overnight and then fill will clear coat tomorrow? On 06/08/2018 at 2:24 PM, Arfur Dealy said: To all the newbies out there, here is a genuinely good short video on how to do minor scratch repairs. I know there are lots of repair vids on YouTube but this guy explains it well and is credible. Did Chrsifix ever do a video for a base coat scratch as he mentioned in the video? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EPV 631 Posted August 11, 2018 Depending on how big the scratch is, i’d say just fill it with paint. Once levelled and compounded it will be very difficult to see the scratch without looking for it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Area 51 33 Posted August 11, 2018 Any tips on a small orbital sander - hand held and not air powder, looking at the 3m perfect it and G3 products to fill the repairs cupboard.. thnx Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark101 536 Posted August 11, 2018 1 hour ago, Area 51 said: Any tips on a small orbital sander - hand held and not air powder, looking at the 3m perfect it and G3 products to fill the repairs cupboard.. thnx I have an older 240V version of this and it is very good. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352147744124 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MSP Motors 39 Posted August 11, 2018 6 hours ago, michelin said: I've enjoyed this thread too especially given the thoughts on the Festool denibber. I appreciate the older ways as well as the new so no harm in trying the latter. The Porsche will be getting its scratch cleaned out today and filled with paint so I'm just wondering if I should leave the paint overnight and then fill will clear coat tomorrow? Did Chrsifix ever do a video for a base coat scratch as he mentioned in the video? Best to give it a few days, otherwise you will just pull the paint out of the scratch when you polish. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
michelin 3 Posted August 11, 2018 Ok, so scratch cleaned out and I managed to get rid of some of it through polishing as part was clearcoat. On to the Loew Cornell Fine Line Painting Pen now and inspection glasses! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MSP Motors 39 Posted August 11, 2018 3 hours ago, michelin said: Ok, so scratch cleaned out and I managed to get rid of some of it through polishing as part was clearcoat. On to the Loew Cornell Fine Line Painting Pen now and inspection glasses! That pen is fantastic..... Although I've lost 3 in the last 6 months! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
michelin 3 Posted August 12, 2018 Bloody hell! There's £75! Second coat of paint today. Its looking good although proof is in the pudding once clear goes on, sets and then Festool'd :-) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sparky 274 Posted August 12, 2018 21 hours ago, michelin said: Ok, so scratch cleaned out and I managed to get rid of some of it through polishing as part was clearcoat. On to the Loew Cornell Fine Line Painting Pen now and inspection glasses! Something else I've never heard of, I've always used golf tees. Anyway, that's another product ordered. This is one expensive thread ! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites