Raj M

This is why I like this forum....taking the piss, apologies Dave if was rude and was not clear enough. Each car company have their own diagnostics strategy in recent years, some will put warning light just as a heads up to the driver (say engine oil max temp threshold is set to 120deg, due to cooling system issue the temp is about to reach max threshold and is now @ 115deg, a warning light will be put on to make the driver aware, and to discourage him from driving further, once the temp goes back to normal or on the next ignition cycle that warning code will disappear, this is called RNF ( Return to normal function)). I obviously don’t work for vauxhall, so don’t know much about it and it was my mates car (2008), not sure though ten years back all OEM’s had same strategy, that’s why I wanted find out in this forum. Thank you for the responses.

Good to hear from you!!

Dave2302 - Well I had to admit after all I work for an automotive OEM and I know much better than you do as I create all those diagnostics codes, some of those codes are invisible on dealer tools, though different manufacturers use different strategies. I didn’t use cheap 5pish obd reader it was snap on versus edge worth £4000 yet there was no code, the car was still driveable, clearly this was RNF/CBD. Guess what RNF/CBD is? I bet you won’t have no clue what that is? Apologies, this isn’t a disrespect to other people in this forum.

So your point is that whenever EML light comes on, it doesn’t necessarily mean you would get an error code? If that’s the case I strongly disagree with you and most probably you know nothing about onboard diagnostics. Its a OBD legal requirement that car also generated error codes when check engine light illuminates. Probably last boy was right I may be using basic OBD reader.

Eventually the light had disappeared after turning ignition off and on again

Vauxhall insignia 2009 saloon stuck in limp mode, engine management light on but no fault code??? After an ignition cycle (turn ignition off and turn it back on) everything seems to have returned to normal........ Possible DPF soot accumulation? Has anyone experienced similar issue before?

Just a thought nothing else.... Looks as though my perspective ought to change

Certainly not buying and selling cars. But I could imagine what you are trying to say ......buy a clean car sell for more margin??? and don't take a mick with old cars...

Thank you for the good advice, but I'd truly admit that I a newbie to car trading and am certainly ready to take any dig. But I am certainly not a newbie when it come to cars as I work for an automotive OEM in R&D who build super and luxury cars. The problem is that I don't work for after sales to know about the happenings on the outside world especially the dealers who would normally come to us for technical support if they can't fix any diagnostics issues. As we all know everybody needs a change that's why I am here with the will to learn about the industry. So I don't mind diggers.....

Hi, I am planning to trade Mini cooper S's, my budget would be around 1000£ -3000£, I really need some advice on faults to look for, any particular model years to avoid, where to buy decent stocks and, finally the margins?? Is it worth buying stock from online sites such as eBay, Auto trader private sellers??? Again any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks,

Thanks guys for the tips, though the real culprit was ''brake pad sensor'', the car on ramp symbol has now disappeared

OK then battery needs replacing. Will check the battery voltage. Thank you

Hi, What does workshop/ car over ramp symbol on dash means in Bmw 320D 2011 model. Is this a remainder for service or service overdue??? Thanks,

Got you, Sorry I misunderstood the post.

Got you, thanks

I am under the impression with limited company, the dividends/profit you make could be reinvested? Can’t you? Thanks for the advice though.

Hi, If it is NOx then it is emission related, so the EMS would put on DTC code at every drive cycle regardless of how many times you clear the fault code. Power train related fault codes are expressed in P code format (Engine related). Faults associated with the ABS are expressed in C code (chassis related) I.e P0xxx for EMS and C0xxx for chassis The issue you are facing, could be down to low voltage (faulty wiring), damaged NOx sensor, or dirty sensor pickup. Please remember: If you see a MIL (Malfunction indicator Lamp) that stays lit up permanently on dash then its obvious the fault is emission related. In most of the cases, it’s a simple fix since most of the people doesn’t understand the rationale about fault codes then eventually end up swapping parts when they don’t need to.

All good, thanks

Hi, The download link isn't working???

Hi, Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll certainly have a look. Cheers

Hi all, I am new to this forum. I find this to be a great place for me to start with, and I am really looking forward to getting some really good advice and tips from you guys on how I could start as a part time car trader and then go on to do it on full time basis. Should I be buying cars from the auction houses ( though not straightway, but after visiting few times and get to understand what's going on in there), or buy cars from private sellers etc. whatelse are the requirements, apart from the below??? - Motor trade insurance - Private license plate - permission from the council if starting from my drive away - BCA,Mannheim trade card Lastly" I am an Automobile engineer, who knows about cars,I am also proficient in car tuning, remapping, Diagnostics. Any advice and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.