michelin

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Posts posted by michelin

  1. Posted

    18 hours ago, EPV said:

    Depending on what I'm repairing, I quite often just leave the paint touch in as it is, a couple of thin layers takes the eye off. If you're repairing deep scratches I'd be cleaning the scratch out with alcohol, fibreglass pen, couple of layers of primer, then paint. 

    Personally I either wetsand and compound to reduce the appearance of scratches or drop a few thin layers of paint in carefully and leave as is. Both techniques take the eye off. I do all of these things and not one person yet has said "hmm there's a scratch here"

    Thanks for the reply :-)

    I think next time I'll prime as it was a deep scratch.

    I've applied lacquer over the scratch and scrape off later.

    I think I'll end up getting the panel painted but I am not giving up on perfecting with this tool! :-)

    Which primer would you use with OEM paint bought from the dealers?

    Thanks

  2. Posted

    I used the Festool yesterday and it does a very good job at shaving back paint.

    The ione problem I had was that, somehow, it pulled some paint from the actually scratch. I ensured it was clinically many times before painting but using panel wipe too :-(

    Should I have keyed the scratch also with say a fibreglass pen?

    Thanks

     

  4. Posted

    The Festool is on offer on eBay via FFX. 

    It works out ar £49.97 with the code PAYME10.

    There are 4 left at this price if anybody was thinking of buying one.

    Cheers

    ps It 's roasting here in Gran Canaria :-)

     

  6. Posted

    It's taken 4 layers of paint to fill the keyed area on the car. 

    I'm going to let it dry now for over a week as I'm away on holiday.

    Once back though The Festool will be out to shave off the excess paint and then I'll compound and polish the area.

    Final step: Apply clearcoat, shave and then polish. Fingers crossed it looks good!

  7. Posted

    On 06/08/2018 at 3:43 PM, justina3 said:

    I've been on Detailing World for well over 10-15 years and some of the info is invaluable. 

    There is a thread about repairing scratches using the 'cut/shave technique'. It's superb. :-)

    Here we go:

    http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=217520

     

     

    Instead of watching midget porn, i switched to following the guys over on detailing world some of the work they do is just out of this world, we have learnt a massive amount from there and they often have good deals on offer as well so we always check there before ordering any cleaning kit. 

    There right up there for new products and they do good reviews so you dont get sucked into buying the latest fad. 

     

    I wasnt knocking them they where our go to system for donkies years, FCP is just so bloody dusty and if you want to polish the whole car it takes an age, where as these modern polishes can do it in one or two passes. 

    Yep the paint has to be fully set over night ideally to get the best results. 

     

     

    44 minutes ago, MSP Motors said:

    The paint has to be thin, a lot of the time touchup paint from halfords or other places needs to be thinned as the tip is ridiculously thin.

    This OEM paint from Porsche is perfect for the L&C pen. I've just laid another coat about 30 mins ago so I'll do another in a minute and then leave it for the day to air dry.

    It's difficult to know how much to leave for clear coat really but this scratch is deep given the poor car was keyed by some ****.

    • Like 1

  10. Posted

    13 hours ago, Area 51 said:

    That it is, and also learning a few new tricks... certainly enjoyed this thread as I suspect many lurkers have too! ;) Poet's day...

    I've enjoyed this thread too especially given the thoughts on the Festool denibber. 

    I appreciate the older ways as well as the new so no harm in trying the latter. 

    The Porsche will be getting its scratch cleaned out today and filled with paint so I'm just wondering if I should leave the paint overnight and then fill will clear coat tomorrow?

    :)

    On 06/08/2018 at 2:24 PM, Arfur Dealy said:

    To all the newbies out there, here is a genuinely good short video on how to do minor scratch repairs. I know there are lots of repair vids on YouTube but this guy explains it well and is credible.

     

    Did Chrsifix ever do a video for a base coat scratch as he mentioned in the video?

  11. Posted

    On 06/08/2018 at 3:27 PM, EPV said:

    yeah, that's the usual process although it's razor, 1500, 3000 (both trizac pads) and them 3M perfect it system (green, yellow, blue) and if done right it's brilliant but I was making more scratches with the razor blade. It's almost too aggressive.

    Another here for the 3M system. It's so simple given the colour system.

  12. Posted · Edited by michelin

    Got ya! Thanks for the replies.

    I'm quietly confident that I can do this scratch especially with the Festool.

    I think I'll apply paint this weekend to just shy of the top and then follow up with clear. I'll let it set for 9 days as I'm away to Gran Canaria :-)

    What about sanding the scratch per my previous post? Thanks

  13. Posted

    Hi,

    Good point re the metallic flakes but I have to ask how they go about it in the factory then?

    I've spent weeks researching this tool both on Youtube and though forums and this is the first time I've struck up decent conversations as to what we will be doing. :-)

    Stone chip repair should be a breeze whereas proper scratches a little more time consuming.

    One question I must ask is should I wet and dry just the scratch to smooth it out a litte? It was a key apparently so possible jaged.

    Thanks

    5 minutes ago, EPV said:

    I turned a grade 4 into a grade 1 over the last two days. £180 for the full front bumper smart repair and a wet sand, touch in, compound and polish by myself. 

    I’d say in total I spent 6 hours myself, £10 worth of material and £180 on a smart repair. 

    Can you explain the grades please?

    thanks

  14. Posted · Edited by michelin

    1 hour ago, Area 51 said:

    This Festool denibber is superb. It alleviates alot of the wet sanding process and what is amazing is how it doesnt touch the existing paint.

    All thats required at the end is compound and polish!

    Superb!

     

     

    I can't see any reason why you can't repair a deep scratch and buff with this tool.

    The main issues are ensuring the scratch is clean and that there are not any jaged edges plus building the paint and clearcoat up slowly

     

     

    Just think of the things you can spot over this weekend that need "denibbing".. Whole new world out there.. dont tell them down the block, BCA will make all grade 4 grade 2..

     

    Any ideas on if this will work on a deep clear coat repair and buff up? ie filling scratch with a clear coat to fill groove then "festool away" and buff?

     

     

    Can't see why it wont but I suppose the main issue is colour match, Given BASF make most of the automotive paints nowadays the dealer pens/paint are brilliant.

    I have a Porsche to do next week and the colour is Platinum Silver. I've used a little of the paint away from the car, let it dry and the match is near perfect.